For me, trapping had always been a lot like fly fishing. 

I didn’t grow up around it, so it seemed complicated and difficult, and resources to get started were hard to come by. Those who did know anything about it guarded their secrets and did a good job gatekeeping their passion from interlopers and Johnny-come-latelies. 

How true that was, I don’t know. But that was always my perception. 

For me, this has been one positive against the huge column of negatives that social media has brought to our lives. As social media grew, so too did a group of social-savvy trappers who were keen to share their knowledge of everything from how to make sets to fur handling and everything in between. 

While fur prices are depressed for a number of reasons, we are in a bit of a trapping renaissance. Not the long-liner style of the last century, but among a larger group of smaller-scale trappers. Rather than trapping as a lifestyle, these newer trappers see the benefit in trapping for habitat management of the property on which they live and hunt. 

Trapping is an incredible tool to keep nest raiders, like raccoons and opossums, in check to help support turkey and gamebird numbers. And any help trappers can lend to keep coyotes in check helps the entire ecosystem stay more balanced. 

This new era of trapping is absolutely a revenue stream you need to be considering for your shop, but it can be a daunting prospect if nobody in your shop is fluent in trapping. Here are some things to consider and some things to avoid when dipping your toes into the trapping waters. 

Trapping equipment breaks down pretty easily into two categories that can be thought of much the same as tech equipment. Items are either hardware of software. 

Much the same way a phone or computer is the hardware capable of running different software programs, the traps and tools needed to create sets are the hardware that different baits and lures, the software, can be used with to customize that set to a particular location or species. 

Traps and tools, like phones or computers, can last years. In reality, traps can last far longer than any phone or computer. While software may have updates, it can usually last as long as the device on which it is used. 

That’s the big difference in trapping software. Baits and lures are consumable — which means people can run out. For you, this means more turns of inventory. What exactly are the consumables you should be considering, how are they used, and how can you source stock your customers will be able to use?

From here, the discussion will focus on options for the most common animals targeted by these habitat trappers: raccoons and coyotes. While some areas have other species of note, we will focus on the most common.

Baits

Almost all trapping sets use some sort of bait. There are exceptions, like snares, conibears and blind sets, but most sets and trappers are going to use a bait to get their target animal to commit to the trap. Some trappers will use whatever is handy as a bait, and scraps and trimmings can work, but these can go rancid or attract unwanted attention from raptors or scavengers. 

While it is true that you will catch raccoons and opossums in traps meant for coyotes and fox, different species will require different baits. 

Dogproof traps have become very popular for raccoons in recent years because of their easy use and the fact that most other animals, especially dogs, can’t accidently end up in the trap. These work with a trigger in the bottom of a tube that requires a raccoon to reach their dexterous hand in to remove the bait, tripping the trigger and engaging a handcuff-style capture. These dogproof traps are anchored with cables so the raccoon can’t get away. 

So, what should trappers put in the tube? Some trappers use dry cat food, corn, a mix of both, or even marshmallows. There are commercial raccoon baits available as well, like Sweet Success Coon Bait from Leatherwood Creek at Hoosier Trapper Supply, Hawbaker Raccoon Bait, or the Coon Chum or Ringtail Cocktail from Mark June’s Baits. 

As you know from the products you’re already selling, customers are happy to pay for convenience. Sure, they could make their own raccoon bait for dogproof traps, but many will happily pay for a product that is proven to work and saves them time. 

What about for those canines being targeted with traditional foothold traps? The most common set for those is called a dirthole set and involves a bedded trap with a hole meant to mimic a small animal burrow. Bait is used to keep a coyote’s attention and get them to step on the trap. 

The specific recipe for these commercially available baits geared towards canines are not shared, and the process to create these baits is not an easy one. Ingredients often include some mix of beaver and bobcat meat with gland lures and other scents. These baits are fermented and made shelf stable. Making up a raccoon bait mix is quite easy, but these coyote meat baits are considerably more complicated. 

Fair warning: Make sure you’re outside when you open these up to take a whiff! Pungent is a kind way to describe them, but that is the scent that attracts predators. Some even use skunk essence for especially cold climates to keep the scent in the air. These types of baits are considered “loud,” and they certainly are. 

Some common and popular commercial baits include the Hoosier Trapper Top Dog, Top Dog Arctic, and Mighty Dog baits; Widowmaker from Mark June’s Baits, and Blackie’s 3-Meat bait. 

The purpose of the bait is to seal the deal once the target animal has made it close to the trap. 

Lures help get them closer. 

Lures

Similar to baits in that they are an attractant, lures are less of a food item and more of a curiosity. Think of it like that neighbor that smokes a brisket. The smoke wafting into your backyard is the lure. It might get you to peek over the fence or walk and ask what they’re up to. The big chunk of smoked beef on the table is the bait that gets you to sit down. 

Lures are usually based around and use gland scents to get the interest of animals in the area. While they can be used with dogproof-type traps, they typically aren’t needed if placed on a trail properly. For canine footholds, they are almost always a necessity. 

There’s some science and some art to the use of lures. Some are year-round, while others are better for early-season use or during the mating window. In my experience, this is the part of the set that trappers experiment with the most. While a trapper may only use one or two baits, they likely have a dozen or more lures to pair with the baits for that just-right set. 

Brands mentioned with baits have lures as well, with fun names like Vixen Elixir, Coyote Contraband, First Frost, or Jett Fuel from Hoosier Trapper’s Leatherwood Creek line, or Windwalker, Canine Candy, or Silent Stalker from Mark June’s Lures.

Urine

Deer hunters know the power of a proper urine-based attractant, and there is value for trappers as well. Logically, we all know it to be true. We’ve had dogs, and we’ve seen them do their business in the same place over and over, or see another dog do their business in a spot and immediately had to run over to “one-up” the other. 

When I trap on my home property, I always pay attention to where my dog chooses to leave a dribble or two and set a trap for coyotes there. I don’t always catch in that spot, but there’s always good action. 

That’s the principle at play with the third aspect of a canine set: urine. There are three urines commonly used by trappers: coyote, fox and bobcat. You might think that only urine from the animal being targeted is effective, but just about any will work on the others. 

You’ll hear some claim that fox will shy away from sets with coyote urine, and then you’ll be shouted down by a guy who uses only coyote urine and hangs 100 fox pelts a year. Like with most things, the answer is varied. I like to mix it up, but I generally tend toward fox as it doesn’t put anything off of it. 

While maybe the least appealing of the lot, it gets used at the highest rate by trappers, so there’s logic in having some on hand. 

What About Hardware?

I’m all for more shops carrying more trapping items. I also understand the need for items to make enough margin and turn frequently enough to be of value to the shop. 

There’s a chance that your shoppers may be in and see a lure or bait that is new to them that they want to try. It’s possible the season is about to end and they just need one more small bottle of urine and can’t wait for one of the online retailers to ship it. 

It’s somewhat less likely that someone comes in just to buy a single foothold trap, or a sifter box. If you know you have a trapping base in your area, then carrying more might make all the sense in the world. If you’re just getting started in appealing to that market, it might make more sense to focus on the scents, so you aren’t investing unreturned cents. 

Sorry. Couldn’t help myself. 

How to Get Started

I mentioned several brands of commercially available baits and lures. They sell their products directly, but also through other retailers. You could reach out to any of those and inquire about how to stock their product. In my experience, no group in the outdoor space is happier to help bring new folks into the fold than trappers. 

Every year there are state, regional, and national trapper events that bring many of the major brands to one place. Check the calendar and make a point to stop by. You can make valuable contacts and get insights from the people who make a living, or at least supplement one, with trapping. 

It’s also very likely you have a local chapter of Fur Takers of America or some other trapping organization that you could use as a resource. You may already have customers who are active with trapping that could be a resource for you when it comes to making specific product stocking decisions. While I mentioned some popular brands, local bait or lure makers may be looking for shelf space as well. 

Even if the days of the long-line trapper are behind us, there’s plenty of opportunity for your shop with the management trapper.